Nkomazi East Blogs 2008
Blog 1
Blog No.1 - Nkomazi east
On the day Nelson Mandela turned 90 the twelve Nkomazi East
volunteers arrived in Johannesburg for the start of their volunteer
placement in the Rainbow Nation. The Nkomazi area is in the border
region of Mpumalanga province, situated to the east within striking
distance of Mozambique, Swaziland and the Kruger national park.
Our placement schools are in Block C and Naas, a township conurbation
half an hour’s drive away from the Spice of life hostel in
Komatipoort. Our first week in Mpumalanga was focused on training and
getting to know each other. In particular there was a focus on
Tenteleni’s aims and values and developing useful skills that will be
applicable when assisting inschools.
For the few first days we were fully occupied by the action Adventure
team. Divided into The “Baboonas” and “Yebo gogo” (yes grandma!) we
played a series of logic, team building, athletic and local
children’s games. Whilst we all learnt to co-operate there was a
substantial amount of friendly competition going on. Particularly
when it came to perfecting the team war cries! As a “Yebo Gogoite”
for a life, I am positive we just edged it!
The Spice of Life hostel is just off the N4, the main highway
connecting Mozambique and Johannesburg. It is run by Kam, Yolandi and
Josh their little tear away two year old, who is absolutely delighted
to have gained 14 new playmates. Out in the expansive grounds lives
Uncle Dave and Rob, two semi- permanent residents. Dave the senior
figure in the Hostel is a useful fountain knowledge for life in
Southern Africa having lived in South Africa, Swaziland and
Mozambique. Having friends on the border point just two kilometershe
is also a handy ally to have. Rob, unlike Dave has a rather
surprising accent. Upon meeting him I was expecting him to have a
gruff Afrikaner accent only to be greeted by a soft South- West
accent. Sensibly Rob escapes England for warmer climes for a couple
of months every year.
The most significant day of week one was the teacher observation day
on Wednesday. This was the first time that we visited the township
and had the opportunity to see our schools and meet our various new
colleagues and learners. We were picked up by Temba in his beats
machine, a white Kombi which will be our transport throughout the
placement. With Afro beats blaring we shot off. Left off the N4, past
the border ridge, along the Koomati river and out into the fertile
plains beyond. As we headed towards Naas farm laborers were already
at work in the Sugar cane and Banana plantations. For those of us who
had never ventured into a township before the whole experience was a
massive culture shock. It proved to be both daunting and
exhilarating.
For the first time since we had arrived in South Africa we were truly
exposed to the reality of the task ahead.
Another significant highlight of the training period was going to
Onderberg Lodge on Friday, the home of the closest Tenteleni project,
Matsulu. As well as accommodating 16 other volunteers it is also home
to three tame resident zebra, the youngest of which is just a couple
of days old. For the days training we were joined by Pienaar and
Kanyamazane for a series of talks by other NGO’s and the education
board. It was good to meet up with the other volunteers, exchange
training week stories and best of all try out the zip wire.
On the weekend we have our own time for relaxation and exploration.
As Kruger is only 20 minutes away we spent our first free weekend on
Safari with Temba and Uncle Dave. An amazing experience before the
real work began!
Blog 2
Blog 2. For Nkomazi East
Four weeks into the project and the Mpumalanga sugar harvest is
getting into full swing. As we make our way to school gangs of
workers are already busy slashing down great swathes of cane. This is
in turn taken to the TSB factory, a major source of employment for
Block C/Naas. As harvest gets going all of us at Nkomazi seem to
beginning to get into the routine of life at our various schools.
The typical school day begins with a half five wake-up call, usually
by an alarm clock though Josh often lends a helping hand. After
breakfast and showers Themba picks us up at 6.20 to be at our various
schools for seven.
Emma and I are the first to be dropped off, at Mgubho Combined
School. After initial customary greetings, “Sowubona?”, “Yebo” and
“Unjani?” the entire teaching staff gather to sing. Maria a senior
matriarch of the school will spark up the opening chord of a siSwati
hymn. Soon all the teachers are responding in perfect harmony. Every
morning without fail this proves to be a truly uplifting start to the
day. A vastly different experience to anything I have witnessed in a
British staff room. I often amuse myself picturing British teachers,
who I met on work experience, having an early morning sing-song.
After hymns and staff announcements the children gather for assembly.
At half seven the school day begins in earnest. By now each volunteer
has identified which teachers they would most benefit from working
alongside. At Mgubho during the day I have tended to work with the
Social Science department helping to prepare activities for children
in their History and Geography lessons. As native English speakers
many of us have been heavily involved in taking language lessons.
However one problem that we have encountered is that British accents
often make it harder for the children to understand what has been
said. Nonetheless, across the board we have also been able to
concentrate in areas where we have the most skill or interest. Dave
at Tindzaleni has gained quite a reputation in science - particularly
with his gizzard demonstration - and Laura and Nic are honing the
children’s more creative talents, working more in drama and art.
Lunch is served early at 10.30. It tends to be Pap and chicken leg.
Pap is maize porridge, a staple carbohydrate for much of southern
Africa. Though not offensive on the palate a huge white mass of bland
can often be a daunting task at such a time in the morning. Just as
the day is at it hottest school finishes at 1.15. The volunteers have
a window between lessons finishing and Themba arriving to run after
school clubs, help with sports or just generally chat with the
children. Additional meetings aside we tend to back at Spice of Life
some time around two thirty giving us a chance to chill out before
preparing for tomorrows lessons and cooking the communal evening
meal.
Blog 3
September and spring is here. Formerly mild
Mpumalanga is now sweltering and the last lessons of the day are
increasingly arduous for volunteers and learners alike. The heat
makes our work load all that harder and with only two weeks to go
we are beginning to take the strain.
In our previous six weeks we have been working
hard in school, assisting in lessons and running after school
clubs. On the 28th of August Tenteleni hosted its annual
sports day, running both soccer and netball tournaments in tandem.
It was a highly successful event and after a number of close
encounters and spirited comebacks Mgubho came out the winners in
soccer whilst Tindzaleni triumphed in Netball. Nonetheless, despite
all our hard work more must be done in the final stages before we
leave on the 12th. We are still to host the Arts
and Culture Festival, which will be held in the township’s central
plaza, and assist the external speakers who are coming in to talk
to learners of Mgubho and Zamakukhle combined
schools.
Our time at school has been tough but
interspersed with numerous moments of joy and deep satisfaction.
Whether it is listening to the staff and pupils sing or witnessing
that moment when something clicks in a child’s mind, we very rarely
come back to Spice without something positive to take from the day.
However a week at school can be exhausting and progress can be
slow. Each Friday we are all ready for a chance to unwind and
explore a bit more of Mpumalanga, “The Place where the sunrises”
and its immediate neighbours.
At Nkomazi East we are blessed with a number of
major attractions within easy reach, most notably the
world-renowned Kruger National Park. Our first weekend was spent
exploring its most southerly extremities. Guided by “Uncle Dave”
and chauffeured by the ever suffering Themba we entered the
Crocodile Bridge gate at dawn and headed north. Within a few
hundred meters of entering park we had our first sighting, a white
Rhino, appearing black against the early morning horizon. Our good
luck was repeated throughout much of the day and we left having
seen and photographed four of the “big five”, the leopard seemingly
one of the more reclusive animals in the
park.
At the end of week five we also visited
Mpumalanga’s Blyde River Canyon and God’s Window both situated to
the north of the province. This weekend turned out to provide some
of the group’s most surreal moments. At our first kombi stop we
came across a BBC film crew who were keen to find out our opinions
on South Africa. Naturally being the quiet camera shy type Laura
readily agreed. After a lengthy interview we were asked to sum up
an immensely contrasting and confusing country in a few words. No
problem… “Shap Shap!!!”
Nor was that the
end of our group’s notoriety, at the Potholes we were confronted by
a school trip of South African teenagers. They were armed with
cameras and determined to get a souvenir photo with the umlungus.
Again, we obliged and as I write my image will be being shown to
family, friends and possibly randomers in Limpopo. When in
Africa…!
As well as travelling within South Africa we also
had a chance to further add to our passport stamps with trips into
Mozambique and Swaziland. A personal highlight of my time away was
the weekend away in Maputo, Mozambique’s capital. Though less than
100km from the South African border the differences between the two
countries are pronounced. The legacy of colonisation by the
Portuguese and the subsequent two decades of civil war have helped
to shape the country’s Latin outlook, leaving them with the envious
ability to savour life. Maputo though falling apart at the seams is
a place with immense charm. Dilapidated concrete apartment blocks
and old colonial mansions line the broad avenues. Whilst downtown
the cracked pavement is home to the buzz of street traders selling
fish and fresh fruit.
Southern Africa truly is a place of wonder with
so much variety within such short spaces. Many of us were so sold
by Mozambique that we have decided to travel back after the end of
the project.